Firenze

A few short days in Firenze...

Despite all the monuments on offer in Firenze, visit number 1: Gelateria Caffe' Delle Carrozze, apparently the best gelato in Firenze.  Look closely and you can see the skidmarks on Felix's leg after being run down by a speeding Vespa...very lucky boy.  He managed to barrel-roll to the side of the road with icecream intact!

Outside S. Maria del Fiore, the Duomo and it's campanile.  Much marble!

 The Duomo fresco (commenced 1572) depicting the Last Judgement.  Incredible to see the scale and just how far off the ground this painting is.

 Climbing the Duomo, 463 steps.  Felix stopped counting out aloud after about 60.

 View from the Boboli Gardens behind the Pitti Palace.

Perseus removes head of Medusa outside the Uffizi.  A crowd favorite with Felix.

Riecine- Chianti

It's a long drive from Toulon to Siena but worth the effort to meet Sean O'Callaghan at Riecine near Gaiole in Chianti.  Riecine is a relative newcomer to Chianti (early 1970's) but Sean has put together an impressive suite of tiny parcels of fruit, scattered across the hills and valleys of Chianti.

 Chatting with Sean, overlooking the amazing scenery above Gaiole in Chianti.  Sean's practical approach to biodynamic farming is similar to mine.  A list of mid-row plants looked remarkably similar to what I've been using back home to foster diversity in the vineyard. 

 More scenery....

 Sangiovese- attention to detail in the vineyard.  There's no real secret, wherever we find standout wines there is serious attention to detail in the vineyard- respect for the soil, moderate crops and careful hand-tending.  These vines look a lot like the Sangiovese we planted for Jacques Lurton on Kangaroo Island- moderate vigour, leaf plucked, shoot thinned etc...

Riecine is a great example of how small can be beautiful.  Sean's wines are beautifully made and the amount of energy that goes into producing such a small volume of product is extraordinary.

Thanks to Monty Waldin for helping to organise visits and hosting us for dinner (twice)- thanks Silvana!

Toulon - Pisa 600kms

The three monkeys of Pisa

Tower

The BEST pasta I ever had!!

Absolutely gorgeous

Italy que bella vida!

One week... Tuscany... time stopped and we all lived a dream for a while

Even the moon rise over the vineyards have something special... or was it that wonderful Chianti Reserva we were drinking?

dreaming dreaming dreaming

everyone's dream is different!!

More to come....

Corrida de Nimes

Traditional, controversial, festival.  A roman arena over 2000 years old, glittering costumes, courage, machismo.  Smells of cigar smoke and horses.  Brass bands, overcrowded narrow streets, unwritten rules, respect and an animated crowd.

I feel fortunate for the experience and suspect it is difficult to pass judgement without understanding all that goes with it.   Tough on the bull at the end of the day though....

Roman Arena

Sam- Lost in the crowd

Crowd

500kg Bulls!

Traditional Costumes

2000 years old and still beautiful.  Amazing.

Domaine de la Begude- Bandol

17 hectares of organic vineyard hidden amongst 500 hectares of 'garrigue' wilderness, a fabulous small winery attached to a an ancient bastide and a 7th century chapel converted into a maturation cellar, Domaine de la Begude is a real gem.  All the more attractive for the generous hospitality we received and the exceptional quality of the wines they produce.

Entrance to the domaine

Maturation in smaller oak (225L/300L/600L)

Cellar

I have been searching high and low for an easier mode of organic weed control.  Alas, everyone seems also to be using a similar version of the age-old silly-plough!

Biodiversity can be associated with the odd difficulty.  Electric 'sanglier' (wild boar) fencing.  Apparently they can eat 20% of the crop in a night as the vines ripen before picking.

Vines hidden in individual parcels within 500 hectares of 'garrigue' wilderness.

A major part of my viticultural philosophy revolves around how to encourage biodiversity in a vineyard mono-culture.  One can only imagine the amount of free 'biodiversity services' de la Begude gains from it's position within this wonderful natural environment.

Very much a highlight of the trip so far and a domaine to admire.

Domaine de Terrebrune- Bandol

Vintage has begun in Bandol.  Today a visit to Domaine de Terrebrune, just a stone’s throw from the port of Sanary sur Mer.

Maturation in large vats (foudres)

Certified organic grapes on terraces

Terrific rose', fresh and zingy and what amazes me most about Bandol rose' is the capacity to age.  A 1993 was fresh and lively and perfectly drinkable.

Whites are a curious mix of Clairette, Ugni Blanc and Bourboulenc and also fresh and lively.

Reds are bright and fresh.  As demanded by the appellation at least 50% Mourvedre (85% in this case) with a little Cinsault and Grenache.  Aged in large oak vats for 18 months these wines age well whilst maintaining real freshness.  They receive a minimum of 24 months bottle age, which I think helps round off the corners of Mourvedre.

Lunch in Hyeres with Sam and Rose

The day after Emma and Sam's birthday a trip across to the old centre of Hyeres, then the beach at l'Almanarre and the Presque Isle de Giens (Port de Niels).

Just the ten of us...Emma, Rose, Sam, Toby, Evie, Lilli, Orlo, Alice, Felix, Saxon....little wonder lunch took over an hour to appear.  Just as well it was worth the wait.

Hyeres- Bell Tower

Street Football

Lunch

Orlo, Felix, Alice, Saxon- Beach at l'Almanarre

Port de Niel

Oursin / Urchin

View across l'Almanarre- Windsurfing capital

Double birthday Emma and Sam both very young

Multicultural birthday party at Villa Madeleine. Great night, great wines, great friends...